Article by: BMWE36V8
Applies to: E36 swap projects!
This a rough guide and what options you have as to how to swap a M62 4.4 liter V8 into a E36 3 Series. There are all ready the Rover derived engine conversions on here being covered so I wont cover that, only to say that I did consider it, but to get the power I wanted I was going to have to purchase a 5.0 liter TVR unit and they fetch a pretty price.
Quick history I had a 400 bhp Cosworth Sierra saloon up until about 18 months ago, which I owned for approx 8 years, got a bit bored with it, as everybody and his dog had one, so I stripped it and was going to put the engine in my wife’s 3 series BMW. . .
Then the purist in me kicked in and decided that the best course of action was to fit a bigger BMW engine, I had a brief moment and considered a 3.8 liter S38 M5 six cylinder, but soon forgot that due to cost. So back to the drawing board. I did some research and found that the M62 V8 BMW units the sump is mounted forward of the cross member, but thought “so what I’ll make a new sump!” No apparently not, BMW in their wisdom thought it would be a great idea to put the oil pump in the sump, and not just a bit in it, it sticks out of the block 7″ or so.
But I will not be beaten and I love a challenge, impossible odds, that sort of stuff, I went on eBay and found an engine, £300 not bad, now to make it fit . . .
Engine now out, what’s in the way of the new transplant . . .
Heater valve had go in sideways.
Cut off a few brackets that are not required and cover with paint . . .
Then test fit the replacement . . .
Right, well I think it’s best to give an idea of my “making it fit” strategy, I got hold of an Alpina e36 B8 4.6 parts manual (in German), so i could see the parts they used (Alpina built 225 of these, 221 for Europe, 4 for Japan (4.0 liter versions), and they came in saloon, coupe, controvertible and estate). From this I got the list of special parts they used and an idea of how they went about it.
So you’re all thinking easy, he just bought the parts to do the job!! Not so, as to buy every thing they made for it (that went into production) would have probably cost me at least £25,000. Considering they change everything, engine, gearbox, drive shaft, gear-linkage, exhaust (inc manifolds), diff, all mountings, etc!!
The list is huge!
Not having a bucket load of cash I had to take a different route, and arguably a better one, I think anyway.
Engine mounts are easy, anybody with a little know how and a mig welder can make them.
The issue, as I’m sure you have now realized is the oil pump and sump. Alpina fit a special pump (£800 – 1000 I believe), and a special sump (similar cost to oil pump) and still mount it in front of the cross member. The issue I have with this is, it’s still too far forward and to high, hence a different drive shaft and special 6 speed gearbox.
I, on the other hand, put the engine in the best place, right back, and as low as possible, as you can see in the under shot the oil pump chain hanging just in front of the steering rack. I’ll come back to the oil pump in a bit. I sourced a 5 speed gearbox from a E34 530i V8, which I mounted on the original gearbox alloy mount and bolted it in the original position in the car, which meant original prop, gear linkage etc. . . All good.
Now the oil pump, sump and stuff . . . More research, I bought a new oil pump from BMW (not the Alpina one), which cost just over £250, it’s from a V8 with a slightly different sump, but still won’t bolt straight on. So I came up with an idea and went of to see a mate who just happens to run his own machine shop, I said “I need this to be longer”, he replied OK! A little cautious he said “How do you want it done?” I replied: “good but cheap”. A plan was hatched to make a jig, cut my new pump in half and extend it the required amount then weld it back together.
See the oil pump chain’s new location:
He then made a flange that mates up to the bottom of the block. I purchased a race sump for an 351W ford V8 of eBay (£65) cut off the mounting flange and starting making the new sump.
The main reason for getting the engine right was to retain the E36 handling, I didn’t want to make it to nose heavy, i.e pushing the engine too far in front of the front wheels.
I took the original dipstick tube, cut to the required length and mounted it in the sump wing that protrudes on the passenger side, then filled the sump with 8 liters of oil and marked the stick.
I had a new shaft made for the oil pump.
The chain still run’s of the same gear on the crank, but on the original V8 oil pump the chain is directly down under the crank, my new pump moves the drive for the pump up and to the drive side and the chain is shorter as well.
The alternator did give me a few concerns to start with, the alternator for the E38 740i did touch the chassis rail, but after some research I found that the
alternator of an E34 530i was slightly smaller. So I took a gamble and bought one to try it and it clear’s by about 1/4″ and doesn’t rub so all good!
I have a friend with a machine shop, well they also make flywheels and other motorsport parts, so a quick phone call, and asked “can you make me a M62 V8 flywheel to a s50 M3 clutch pattern?” , “yes” was the response . . .
Then obviously the clutch, hmmmm . . . The M3 clutch being light and more readily available was the main reason for the strange flywheel request, but the standard M3 produces 260ft/lb ‘ish of torque, a standard V8 romps out about 315, and mines not exactly standard, so should be about 340ft/lb..!!!
So looked on eBay in the UK, M3 clutch £400+ for an up-rated one, and £600 for the torque rating I required . . . then looked to the USA and found many more choices. One rated to 485bhp and 435ft/lb £265 delivered, brilliant, and only took 5 days to get here!
Then a quick mod on the rear water housing . . .
Then bolt the gearbox to the engine and into the car . . . with the exhaust being next up.
About the exhaust . . . Well I did have my own company a few years ago doing this kinda stuff, but unfortunately it is no more. I used to make exhaust systems as part of the work I carried out. . .
I used the original BMW exhaust flanges, just cut them off flush. I then made new exhaust manifolds from mild steel (I have used stainless in the past but these can sometimes crack in my experience), I used a 4-2-1 design for clearance purposes more than anything else, I originally intended to make 4 into 1’s but there is no room for the 4 way collector under the car . . .
Nearside:
Offside:
You can see how tight it is round steering column . . .
The system itself is made from stainless, 2 1/2″ bore with an X-pipe and then an M3 Scorpion straight through muffler to finish it off.
So I think that covers it!